Trip to Toruń and Bydgoszcz

Last November, my wife and I went on a two-day trip to Bydgoszcz, which I wrote about in my post Trip to Bydgoszcz. I really liked the city, but because I did not manage to enjoy all of its attractions, especially a ride on the water tram, I decided to visit Bydgoszcz again in the spring, when the weather would be warmer and the water tram would be operating. I planned our return trip during the Corpus Christi holiday. By taking just one day off work, I could enjoy a four-day break. 😊

Since Toruń lies on the way and we had not explored it in spring before, my wife and I agreed to stop there as well. Toruń is also a beautiful city, full of interesting places worth seeing, many of which we had not visited yet. Previously, we had skipped the Planetarium, so our main reason for going there was to attend a space-themed show. We also wanted to enjoy some good gingerbread beer, buy fresh gingerbread cookies, and simply relax.

This time, instead of booking accommodation through Booking.com, I made reservations directly through the hotels’ websites. In Toruń, I booked one night at Ibis Budget, and in Bydgoszcz at Campanile. We had stayed in both hotels before, so I already knew what to expect. We also decided not to book coach tickets and instead travelled by car. This gave us the freedom to stop wherever we wanted and avoided the need to use public transport between destinations.

We started our journey later than planned, unfortunately. Once again, I had wanted to leave earlier. As usual, we used AutoMapa for navigation. Since I used to travel to Toruń and Bydgoszcz on business years ago, I decided to follow the same route I had taken back then, before the A1 and A2 motorways were built. On one hand, it was a sentimental choice, and on the other, I wanted to enjoy the beautiful scenery that you miss when driving on the motorway. We travelled along National Road 92, then took the Sochaczew bypass (Road 50), and later continued straight through Ruszki towards Łąck on Road 577.

The sight of blooming plants, birds singing, the cool air in the forests on a hot day, and the fresh countryside air all have a positive effect on your mood. That is exactly what this route offers. It also allows you to enjoy the landscape at a relaxed pace, something that is not always possible when driving on a motorway.

From Łąck, we headed towards Włocławek through Soczewka. However, after passing the roundabout in Łąck, we encountered a religious procession and had to wait about 15 minutes. Much of the road from Łąck to Soczewka runs through the Gostynin-Włocławek Landscape Park, an area that makes quite an impression due to its vast size. The route from Soczewka to Włocławek is also very picturesque, with the landscape park on the left and the Vistula River on the right. In several places along National Road 62, the river is almost within arm’s reach. When the water level is high, this can be both impressive and somewhat intimidating. Either way, the views are stunning, making it well worth stopping for a break at the roadside or at a riverside café.

We explored Włocławek simply by driving slowly through the city centre. There are several places worth seeing there, but they can easily be visited within a few hours. Unfortunately, we did not have that time because we had a reservation at the Toruń Planetarium. I expect we will stop in Włocławek another time. Perhaps some readers could recommend interesting places to visit there?

After leaving Włocławek, we continued along National Road 91 and made a stop in Ciechocinek. Finding a parking space was a challenge, but eventually I found a paid parking lot. I had no idea so many people visited Ciechocinek. In some places, it was difficult even to walk because of the crowds.

Near the famous Mushroom Fountain, we ate sandwiches we had prepared that morning, bought some ice cream, and took a short walk through Spa Park. There we saw a pond with ducks and swans, the wooden Bristol restaurant building, a wooden amphitheatre where a concert had just begun, and the fountains of Hansel and Gretel and the Frog Fountain.

We spent less than an hour in Ciechocinek before continuing to Toruń along Road 91, parallel to the motorway. While driving, I noticed that many restaurants and roadside eateries that used to be popular before the motorway was built had closed down. Sadly, many of these places, often known for their good food, have been replaced by large chain establishments. On the positive side, traffic is much lighter than on the motorway, and you can stop almost anywhere.

When we arrived in Toruń, we went straight to the hotel. Although the Ibis Budget website mentioned parking availability, there was no information that parking was paid separately. After checking in, we carried our bags to the room. This time our room did not smell of cigarettes, but there was an unpleasant smell in the toilet.

Overall, the rooms at Ibis Budget are furnished quite cheaply. There is no kettle for making tea or coffee. The sink and mirror are located about a metre from the bed, with a glass shower door squeezed in between. The only fully separate room is the toilet. Soundproofing is also poor, and once again we were woken in the middle of the night by noisy guests returning from a night out. The advantages are the low price and the hotel’s close proximity to Toruń’s Old Town. However, if anyone knows a better alternative, I would be happy to hear about it before my next visit.

After resting and freshening up, we headed towards the Planetarium. We wanted to arrive early to collect our tickets and, if possible, visit Orbitarium or Geodium. Unfortunately, all tickets for those attractions had already sold out for that day, but we managed to buy tickets for the next day’s Orbitarium session. While purchasing them, the ticket clerk informed us that on public holidays and weekends only reduced-price tickets were sold, so we unexpectedly benefited from a pleasant discount.

Because we had almost an hour before the show, we wandered around the Old Town for a while. During our walk, we discovered a place we had never visited before: the Toruń Gingerbread Museum. We decided to save it for our next trip. Back in 2014, we visited the Living Gingerbread Museum, which we still remember fondly. I wonder whether the Gingerbread Museum will leave a similar impression..

The Planetarium

We were supposed to be at the Planetarium hall five minutes before the show, but we arrived even earlier so that we could enter without rushing. When we got there, several school groups were already gathering outside the building, while visitors had formed a queue in front of the entrance to the auditorium, which we joined as well. Shortly before the screening began, we entered the hall, found our seats, settled comfortably into the reclining chairs, and waited for the film to start.

The Planetarium’s shows are projected onto a 15-metre-diameter dome using a Zeiss RFP II star projector manufactured in Germany. The projector is located in the centre of the auditorium, which is surrounded by 189 seats. One side of the hall contains the entrance and the operators’ area, while the opposite side features an exit leading to a spiral staircase. Each screening lasts approximately 40 minutes.

We chose a show called In Search of Life, which explored the origins of life on Earth and whether life could also emerge on other planets. It was a fascinating presentation that broadened my knowledge of space and astronomy. The children in the audience watched with great interest as well. The only downside came after the screening. Getting up from the semi-reclined position left us feeling a little dizzy, which was hardly surprising considering how much our eyes had been moving around the dome following the action on the screen.

After the show, we decided it was time for a good coffee. We stopped at Franciszek Pokojski’s Confectionery, where we ordered gingerbread-flavoured coffee and iced coffee. Both drinks were excellent and were decorated with fresh signature gingerbread cookies. The following day, we bought several packages of these cookies as gifts for our family.

We spent some time wandering around the Old Town and later walked along the Vistula River. Eventually, we crossed the John Paul II Bridge to reach the opposite bank and enjoy the panoramic view of the Old Town from a viewpoint there. It took us a while to reach the other side, but the effort was definitely worthwhile. Along the way, we took several photographs of the city, but once we arrived at the viewpoint, the scenery proved to be even more impressive. There were very few people around, so we were able to spend some peaceful time gazing at the river and the historic skyline.

As the sun slowly began to set, we started heading back towards the hotel so we could change into warmer clothes. We had planned to return via the bridge, but someone happened to call a water taxi, and we managed to hop aboard as well. The fare was only 4 PLN for the crossing, and I must admit it was a far more enjoyable experience than taking a regular sightseeing boat.

That evening, we took another walk through the Old Town before heading to Jan Olbracht Brewery for some excellent beer. It is not the cheapest place in town, but it is definitely worth visiting at least once. The beer is outstanding, the food is delicious, and the interior is beautifully designed, with each floor decorated in a different style.

This time, we sampled the brewery’s gingerbread beer, Märzen lager, and a refreshing Witbier. We also ordered some tasty potatoes and enjoyed our meal outside. Unfortunately, our pleasant evening was briefly disturbed by a heavily intoxicated man who wandered over from another venue. Thankfully, the staff eventually managed to deal with the situation, although it took them a little while.

From Jan Olbracht, we went for a walk along the Vistula River and then headed to the bridge to admire the beautifully illuminated Old Town.

Orbitarium and More Exploring

The next morning, we packed our belongings into the car and headed to the Orbitarium. There were plenty of visitors eager to get inside, especially families with children. As it turned out, Orbitarium is primarily designed for younger visitors.

The exhibition features a variety of interactive displays where visitors can view information and images of planets and moons, examine different components of the Cassini spacecraft, test the delay of signals travelling through space, compare their weight on different celestial bodies, observe how a tornado forms, and much more.

Although Orbitarium is aimed mainly at children, we had a great time there as well, and before we knew it, the visit was over.

After leaving Orbitarium, we did a little shopping and then went looking for ice cream. The previous day we had noticed a very long queue outside one of the city’s confectioneries, so we decided to find out what all the fuss was about.

To our surprise, the queue was much shorter this time, although it still stretched slightly beyond the doorway. The place was Garbary Confectionery, part of the Lenkiewicz confectionery company.

One scoop of their homemade ice cream cost only 4 PLN, but when we saw the size of the portions, we were amazed. A single scoop there was equivalent to about four scoops elsewhere. There may be exceptions, but we had never received portions that large before. They were easily the longest-lasting ice creams we had ever eaten.

It was fantastic, and I can wholeheartedly recommend this place. Not only do you receive enormous portions, but the ice cream tastes absolutely wonderful as well.

Next, we walked past the Baj Pomorski Theatre and entered the courtyard of the Teutonic Castle ruins. There is not a huge amount to explore there, but it is certainly worth visiting. One particularly unusual sight is the football pitch located between the castle walls. Another interesting feature is the theatre entrance, which has been designed to resemble a giant wardrobe.

From the castle ruins, we made our way down to the Vistula River, where we spent some time simply lying by the water. By then, we no longer felt like walking much, although I had considered climbing the Town Hall tower, which we still had not visited. There were many people waiting to go up, so it likely would not have been especially enjoyable. We decided to leave it for another trip. Besides, a little laziness now and then can be quite pleasant.

Lunch Before Leaving for Bydgoszcz

Before heading to Bydgoszcz, after our relaxing break by the Vistula, we went for lunch. We chose our favourite milk bar on Różana Street. Pod Arkadami Milk Bar offers good food at very reasonable prices. The meals are tasty, the portions are satisfying, and the atmosphere is simple and welcoming. The only drawback is that it is quite popular, so you sometimes have to wait in line.

After lunch, we returned to the car and set off for Bydgoszcz. Leaving Toruń via National Road 10 and bypassing Solec Kujawski, we soon arrived in our next destination. Upon arrival, we headed straight to the hotel to check in, unpack, and prepare for an evening walk around the city.

Arrival in Bydgoszcz

We quickly reached the Campanile Hotel and went to collect our room key. Just like at Ibis Budget, we discovered that parking was charged separately. The price, however, was quite different: 33 PLN per day compared to 19 PLN at Ibis. It is a pity that such information is not clearly displayed during the booking process.

Apart from that, I have no complaints about the hotel. The room rate was actually lower than at Ibis, yet the standard was noticeably better. The rooms were very well soundproofed, which made a huge difference. There was an electric kettle in the room, along with complimentary coffee, tea, powdered milk, and sugar. We also received half-litre bottles of still and sparkling water. The bed was comfortable, there was a double set of towels, and the bathroom featured a spacious shower tray. A hairdryer was provided, together with shoe-cleaning cloths, a small sewing kit, sanitary bags, liquid soap by the sink, and shower gel for both body and hair.

Compared to the Ibis hotel, Campanile felt almost luxurious. In addition, the housekeeping staff regularly asked whether we needed anything, which created a very welcoming atmosphere. A particularly thoughtful gesture was a small gift consisting of a deck of playing cards and a thank-you letter for booking directly through the hotel’s website. I truly appreciated that.

After settling in, we headed out to explore the city. As we had done during our previous visit, we followed the Brda River towards the Old Town. There was no rush. We simply enjoyed strolling among the beautiful Bydgoszcz townhouses and soaking up the atmosphere.

Eventually, we reached Mill Island (Wyspa Młyńska). There, we sat beside the Międzywodzie Canal and listened to the soothing sound of flowing water. Mill Island is one of those rare places where you can escape the bustle of a large city and truly relax, provided there is no event taking place at the time.

Unfortunately, the evening was rather chilly, so shortly before 9 p.m. we left Mill Island and headed back towards the hotel. Once again, we followed the Brda River, enjoying the views of beautifully illuminated buildings and the University Bridge reflected in the water. The peace and quiet along the river made the walk particularly pleasant.

The Bydgoszcz Water Tram

The next day, we returned to the Old Town, this time specifically to take a ride on the Bydgoszcz Water Tram. Unfortunately, we missed the departure and had to wait more than two hours for the next service.

To make use of the time, we explored the northern side of the Brda River, particularly the area around Gdańska Street. There we once again visited the impressive Deluge Fountain (Potop). This time we were able to see it fully operational. Although the fountain looks spectacular even without water, seeing it in action is even more impressive.

While wandering through the streets lined with historic buildings, we stopped at Staropolska Confectionery for ice cream. The ice cream was good, but not nearly as memorable as what we had enjoyed in Toruń.

About thirty minutes before departure, we made our way to the Rybi Rynek Marina to wait for the boat. It was a good decision to arrive early because the demand was enormous while the vessel had only twenty-eight seats available. Fortunately, we managed to board. The captain even allowed a few extra passengers on board, which was very kind of him.

We set off aboard a boat called Słonecznik on the Old Town route. The line follows the upper section of the river, so we sailed past Mill Island on the left and the magnificent Opera Nova building on the right.

A little later, beyond Marshal Ferdynand Foch Bridge, the boat entered a lock. The gates closed behind us and water began flowing into the chamber. Slowly but steadily, the Słonecznik rose higher and higher. After several minutes, the water level had increased by more than three metres. Once it matched the level of the river beyond the second gate, the gate opened and we continued our journey.

We sailed as far as the Astoria Sports Club, where the boat turned around without stopping and headed back towards Rybi Rynek. On the return journey, we entered the lock once again, but this time the process was reversed and the chamber was gradually emptied of water.

The round trip lasted about an hour. The route itself is not particularly long, but the boat travels at a leisurely pace. What surprised me the most was the price: only 5 PLN per person.

Yes, just 5 PLN.

The operation of the lock was undoubtedly the highlight of the cruise. Watching the water being pumped in and out while the boat rose and fell was fascinating. At the same time, admiring the city’s historic buildings from water level was both relaxing and enjoyable. It also made me think how nice it would be to rent a kayak or a pedal boat and explore the waterways independently, although those attractions appeared to be very popular with tourists as well.

Lunch at Stary Port 13

After the cruise, it was time for lunch. We chose a restaurant called Stary Port 13, located next to the Polish Post Office building and housed inside a beautifully restored historic granary.

The atmosphere inside was extraordinary. Solid wooden furniture, exposed beams, decorative wooden details, and carefully prepared displays created a unique interior. The dining room itself was divided into two sections by a small stream running through the middle. Fish swam in the water, while a mill wheel continuously supplied the stream, creating a gentle sound of flowing water. It was a wonderful idea that contributed greatly to the restaurant’s ambience.

On that day, a family celebration was taking place in one section of the restaurant. A partition screen had been set up to separate the event from the rest of the dining area, ensuring that neither group disturbed the other.

We ordered chicken breast stuffed with smoked cheese and bacon, accompanied by dark beer. The friendly waitress first brought our drinks and a complimentary serving of homemade lard with bread. Before we had even finished the appetiser, the main course arrived.

And what a meal it was.

One portion would easily have been enough for two people. The servings were so generous that it took us over an hour to finish our lunch. I honestly could not remember the last time I had left a restaurant feeling so full.

The chicken was exceptional. Unlike many poultry dishes, the meat was not dry at all. It was tender, juicy, and almost melted in the mouth. I have no idea how the chefs achieved such a result, but they certainly deserve praise.

Excluding drinks, our meal cost around 60 PLN. It was absolutely worth every złoty. We have paid more elsewhere for much smaller portions, so I can wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Stary Port 13.

Exploring a Different Part of the Old Town

After our substantial lunch, we slowly set off to discover a part of the Old Town we had not yet explored. Walking along Stary Port Street, we continued towards Bernardyńska Street and then followed it in the direction of Wały Jagiellońskie.

On one of the bridges, we paused for a while to admire the Brda River and the surrounding historic buildings. Afterwards, we passed the Church of St. Andrew Bobola, whose towers dominate the Old Town skyline.

Continuing onward, we reached Wały Jagiellońskie and climbed towards a viewpoint near the monument to King Casimir the Great. From there, we enjoyed views over part of the Old Town. I suspect, however, that the residents of the apartment blocks located even higher on the hillside enjoy an even more impressive panorama every day.

Our original plan was to continue to the Water Tower, but after reaching Aleja Górska we noticed dark storm clouds gathering overhead. Deciding not to risk it, we descended via Terasy Street and headed back toward the Old Market Square.

Unfortunately, we were not quick enough to reach a café or restaurant before the rain arrived. Instead, we found shelter in the entrance of a townhouse building.

The downpour left us slightly wet, and eventually we returned to the hotel to change our clothes and put on something warmer.

From there, our evening in Bydgoszcz continued.

An Evening in Bydgoszcz

After changing into dry clothes and putting on something warmer, we headed out again for an evening stroll and, naturally, a good beer.

Our first destination was Wincenty Witos People’s Park, a place that was created in the 1950s on the site of a former cemetery. As we wandered through the park, we noticed an interesting-looking bandshell and a large fountain. Overall, the park felt surprisingly empty. We only passed a handful of people, making it a peaceful place to relax and escape the city noise.

As we left the park, we came across a bust of Wincenty Witos, the park’s patron, standing beside the main promenade. From there, we continued towards the Old Market Square, where we sat down for a short rest.

At exactly 9:13 p.m., a rather unique attraction takes place at 13 Old Market Square. A moving sculpture of Master Twardowski appears in one of the building’s windows. We had specifically wanted to see it because during our previous visit to Bydgoszcz in autumn, the figure had not appeared. The performance lasted only a few dozen seconds, but it was an entertaining attraction and certainly one of the city’s more unusual sights.

The final stop of the evening was Warzelnia Piwa (The Beer Brewery). It is a great place to enjoy craft beer as well as a meal. Since we were still full from our enormous lunch at Stary Port 13, we limited ourselves to beer and a serving of onion rings.

Warzelnia Piwa reminded me a little of the Jan Olbracht Brewery in Toruń. The main difference is that the interior here is decorated in a much more modern style. At the same time, the enclosed terraces blend beautifully with the surrounding historic townhouses. Another advantage is the location beside Młynówka, a branch of the Brda River, which creates a particularly charming atmosphere after dark.

Good beer, tasty food, and a wonderful setting make this place well worth visiting.

Our pleasant evening concluded with a leisurely walk through the beautifully illuminated Old Town and along Gabriel Narutowicz Riverside Boulevard, which follows the Brda River. The moon reflected in the water, adding an extra touch of magic to the already picturesque scenery.

Our Last Day in Bydgoszcz

The next morning, we packed our belongings and checked out of the hotel before noon. We decided to spend a little more time in the Old Town before heading home. After all, this was only the end of this particular trip. We were already certain that we would return to Bydgoszcz again someday.

We began our final walk with a visit to an ice cream shop called Przystań na Lody. The artisanal ice cream was excellent and disappeared quickly in the warm Sunday weather.

From there, we made our way to Mill Island, where a large Children’s Day festival was taking place. We sat beside the Międzywodzie Canal, dipped our feet in the water, and enjoyed the music playing nearby.

It was obvious that the event had been organised on a grand scale. There were countless attractions for children, allowing them to run around and have fun for hours. Parents seemed to be enjoying themselves just as much, and it was nice to see families spending quality time together. Numerous stalls offered souvenirs, sweets, and treats such as cotton candy.

Before leaving the city, we wanted one more meal. The day before, while exploring the Old Town, we had noticed a place specialising in Belgian-style fries and decided to give it a try.

The restaurant was called Freetki. It serves fries with a variety of sauces, as well as more traditional options such as mayonnaise and ketchup. We each ordered a large portion, which was more than enough to satisfy our hunger.

Personally, I felt that the amount of sauce included could have been a little more generous, but overall the fries were very tasty.

Heading home

And that was how our successful trip to Toruń and Bydgoszcz came to an end.

After finishing our fries, we returned to the car and began the journey home. We initially entered the motorway near Toruń, but heavy traffic and overcrowded service areas around the Ciechocinek interchange convinced us to leave the motorway and return to National Road 91.

In the end, we drove back along exactly the same route we had taken on the way there. At least there was far less traffic than on the motorway, and the scenery was far more enjoyable. Sometimes the slower road turns out to be the better choice.

Looking back, the trip was a perfect combination of sightseeing, relaxation, good food, excellent beer, and beautiful landscapes. Toruń once again charmed us with its history and atmosphere, while Bydgoszcz confirmed that it is one of the most underrated cities in Poland. Both cities gave us plenty of reasons to return, and I am sure that sooner or later we will be back to discover even more of what they have to offer.

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Our Travels

I encourage you to read my posts about the trips I take with my wife, including our hikes to the peaks that make up the Crown of Polish Mountains. Descriptions of our journeys are available at: likoton.pl/en/category/podroze.