We’ve just returned from another successful weekend getaway, which my wife and I began on the first Friday of February. Yes, despite our workaholism, we actually took a day off. This time, we headed east, to Podlasie — specifically, the area around Białystok.
This trip was planned with winter break in mind, hoping for plenty of snow so we could go on a sleigh ride. At first, I considered finding accommodation in Białystok and going for the sleigh ride somewhere nearby, but I managed to find a place that interested me and also appealed to my wife. It offered both accommodation and the possibility of organizing a sleigh ride.
We successfully booked a room for the chosen date, so I began searching for places worth visiting in the area. The first destination was supposed to be the Molotov Line — numerous bunkers located near the village of Prosienica. Our Podlasie itinerary also had to include Białystok and Supraśl. I added Choroszcz, Tykocin, and Kiermusy, where there is a bison breeding center. All that remained was to wait for the trip.
The day of departure finally arrived, so with a slight delay we packed our bags into the car and set off for Podlasie. We had over 240 km ahead of us to reach our accommodation, but along the way we planned to visit several places.
The first stop was the Molotov Line, as mentioned earlier. Unfortunately, to get from one bunker to another, we would have had to walk across fields, and since it had rained earlier, it would have been impossible to walk normally between them. We’ll have to return on a warm day or with proper gear and dedicate an entire day to exploring the bunkers, as there are many to see.
We continued to Białystok, where we parked in the city center to stroll around peacefully. We began our sightseeing in Planty Park, then walked to Branicki Park. The first park is nice, though a bit neglected — although some renovation work was underway, so perhaps its appearance will soon improve. Branicki Park, along with the palace located within it, is impressive even in winter. It must be beautiful in spring or summer when everything blooms and becomes colorful.
Today, the palace houses the rector’s office of the Medical University of Białystok and the Museum of the History of Medicine and Pharmacy, but its interiors can still be visited. The accessible rooms include the Great Hall, the Chapel, the main hall, and the staircase. More information is available on the university’s website.
After touring the Branicki Palace, we walked to Kościuszko Market Square, where the first landmark is the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, visible from afar.
The market square is surrounded by low, renovated tenement houses, nicely decorated. They are not as colorful as those in Gdańsk, which in my opinion makes the whole area look more elegant. The buildings house various service and dining establishments, which are quite busy despite the season. We noticed an unusually large number of bridal salons — more than we had ever seen in one place, unless we simply never paid attention before.
From Kościuszko Square, we walked along Suraska Street to a sculpture resembling a theatrical mask. It stands at University Square. One side of the mask is smiling, the other sad — an interesting concept referencing Białystok’s theatrical venues.
On the other side of University Square, in Central Park, stands the Monument to the Heroes of the Białystok Region. It is nearly 22 meters tall and placed on a hill, creating an impressive sight.
We walked through Central Park and reached the Podlasie Opera and Philharmonic. The building combines modern architecture with natural elements, somewhat reminiscent of Warsaw’s BUW library, but here everything seems more thoughtfully designed and cohesive. As in BUW, you can go up to the roof, but here it is only possible for a fee.
After walking around the opera grounds, we were shocked. Behind us stood the opera building, to the left Central Park, ahead modern apartment blocks — and between them, a neglected wooden farmstead. Quite a contrast: a decaying farm in the middle of a large city. It reminded me a bit of the farm from the movie Let’s Make a Grandchild, except that in the film it was well maintained — unlike this one.
We walked past the farmstead to Młynowa Street, then Marjańskiego, Liniarskiego, and Lipowa, returning to the market square. We came back to have lunch at the Town Hall, specifically at the Esperanto restaurant located inside. Although the portions were not large, they were tasty and filling, so I can recommend the place. A nice idea is serving tea with honey in a vodka shot glass, with cloves and orange — perfect for cold days. We didn’t visit other restaurants in Białystok, so I can’t compare.
From the Town Hall, we walked along Lipowa Street to St. Roch’s Church. Due to its size, it stands out — you can see it from the Town Hall. Interestingly, there is a kindergarten on the church grounds, with a playground in its courtyard.
Since it was getting dark and we still hadn’t reached our accommodation, we headed back to the car. We walked a bit along Piłsudski Street, where beautiful murals decorate the apartment blocks.
We then passed through the market square and by the Branicki Palace again. We bought some groceries for the evening and the next day, and headed to our final destination of the day.
We arrived at Ritowisko — an agritourism farm located in the Knyszyńska Forest. To reach it, you must turn off the main road after Supraśl onto a forest road toward Surażkowo and drive 8 km through the woods. I had been warned by phone not to rely on GPS, but I decided to test it — and AutoMapa did not disappoint, guiding us correctly.
Driving through the forest at night was thrilling. Along the way, various sculptures emerged from the darkness one after another, creating an incredible atmosphere. It turned out they form the Forest Gallery of the January Uprising of 1863. Only after 6 km did we see some buildings, and after passing them, the road became empty again until we reached Surażkowo — a village that looked completely deserted.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Ms. Agnieszka, who helps the owners run the guesthouse. She showed us our room and arranged breakfast time. After unpacking, my wife and I began a name‑day dinner, drinking rosé wine and refining our plan for the next day.
On Saturday, we woke up early because breakfast was at 9. Already at 8, we smelled food coming from the kitchen — a sign that something delicious awaited us. And indeed it did. Homemade food, including freshly made mushroom spread — something we had never tried before. It was very tasty. Breakfast was served in a pleasant atmosphere with another couple and the hosts.
We had previously arranged with Mr. Cezary, the owner of Ritowisko, that we would go on a sleigh ride on Saturday, but there was no snow and none was expected, so that option was off the table. Fortunately, Mr. Cezary is prepared for such situations and offered a nighttime carriage ride, which is also popular. Even that Saturday, a group had booked an evening ride followed by a feast. He also suggested horseback riding with a torch — recommended by the couple who had breakfast with us. We needed to think it over and give him an answer.
After breakfast, we returned to our room to prepare for the day. In the meantime, we decided to choose the horseback ride. As we were leaving, we informed Mrs. Rita, Mr. Cezary’s wife, and agreed to start the ride at 19:30, as we expected to return around that time, and earlier another group had booked the carriage sleigh ride. After making the reservation, we walked around the farm for a bit.
Since I hadn’t done it yet, I’ll describe Ritowisko here. It is an agritourism farm located in Surażkowo, by the Sokołda River. The farm has a stable with 15 horses used for horseback rides, sleigh rides, and even wedding carriages. The horses have a large paddock with access to a pond where guests can fish. Other farm buildings house chickens, turkeys, and rabbits. There is also a gazebo for grilling, a fire pit, a climbing wall, and a playhouse for children. Guests can also use kayaks on the nearby river. The surrounding forests are perfect for mushroom picking.
The main building is wooden, with a smaller wooden guesthouse next to it. Inside the main building, there is a large dining hall with a fireplace and an open kitchen. The hall is richly decorated, with many paintings of horses. Dogs and cats run around — or lie on the fireplace — creating a cozy, homely atmosphere. In the hallway, there is a couch with a TV and a small bookshelf, and the walls are covered with horse paintings, just like the dining hall.
The guest rooms are located above the dining hall and kitchen, accessible by stairs. Our room had a traditional look, richly decorated like the rest of the house. The bathroom’s only downside was that hot water took a long time to appear. Another drawback was poor sound insulation. There was no electric kettle in the room, but guests could use the kitchen to make tea or coffee.
Upon arriving, we immediately felt stress melt away. Everyday worries disappeared. We felt better right away. I don’t know whether it was the fresh air, the décor, the kindness of the hosts, or simply being cut off from civilization — the rustling trees, the sounds of animals. Pure bliss.
Back to the trip. From Ritowisko, we drove to Supraśl, taking a different route — turning right after Surażkowo and going through Łaźnie to the road in Kopna Góra. This allowed us to see the wild nature surrounding the area. Villages like Surażkowo, with 99% wooden farmhouses, look like a living open‑air museum. Amazing. People here live differently — slower, closer to nature.
On the way to Supraśl, we stopped at a twisted pine trunk. The fallen 350‑year‑old pine lies in Podsupraśl. A shelter was built over it to protect it from the elements. The trunk is huge and indeed twisted, though the reason remains unknown.
In Supraśl, we parked near the Monastery of the Annunciation of the Most Holy Mother of God and St. John the Theologian, from where we began exploring this small but charming town. The monastery consists of many beautiful buildings, including churches, creating an impressive sight. The Icon Museum is located on its grounds, but we didn’t manage to visit it.
Near the parking lot is a riverside boulevard with various sculptures, including a signpost resembling a heron. Here we noticed the first signs of spring — buds on trees — quite unusual for early February. The boulevard is a lovely place where you can walk, play sports like volleyball, or use the outdoor gym. In summer, you can sunbathe by the Supraśl River or the Zajma reservoir. Perhaps swimming is allowed too, as there were no signs prohibiting it.
Supraśl, like other nearby towns, has many wooden cottages. Many are historic and well preserved, as evidenced by awards for maintaining their original appearance.
An interesting building in Supraśl is the Buchholtz Palace, now home to the Artur Grottger Fine Arts High School. Students there must feel lucky to study in such a beautiful building.
Across the street is the Biesiada restaurant, where we stopped for a snack. My wife ordered coffee and cake, and I decided to try Solyanka soup and Wostok drink. Solyanka resembles Stroganoff and was very tasty. Recipes are easy to find online, so I’ll have to make it someday. Wostok is lightly carbonated, supposedly with a forest note, but to me it tasted like powdered lemon tea — not very impressive. I also tried my wife’s apple pie and coffee — both excellent. I recommend this place to anyone visiting Supraśl.
Since time was running out, we walked a bit more around Supraśl and then continued our journey. Next time, we’ll need to spend more time here and visit the Icon Museum, which many people recommend.
We hurried because at 13:00 the celebration of the capture of Tykocin Castle was starting. At 13:00 there was a mass, at 14:00 a show in the market square, and at 15:00 a reenactment of the castle assault. We arrived in Tykocin after 14:00, but parking near the market square was impossible, so we drove straight to the castle. We only walked around it, as entry to the courtyard was closed — part of the reenactment was taking place there. Visitors could enter only after the performance. We waited for the actors to arrive, and thanks to that we got fairly good spots — though the best ones were already taken.
The reenactment was spectacular — lots of cannon and pistol shots, grenades, smoke, and intense fighting. It was interesting, though there were some “flaws.” The narrator read from a sheet of paper and seemed to be doing it for the first time, which didn’t look professional. Many actors clearly had fun, which on one hand is nice — it’s great to see happy people enjoying themselves — but on the other hand, it reduced the realism. And then there were scenes like “they killed him and he ran away.” Despite the imperfections, it was enjoyable to watch, and it’s great that people organize and participate in such events.
After the reenactment, a medieval dance show was supposed to begin. Many people gathered, so it would have been hard to see anything, and we had dinner waiting in Kiermusy, so we left Tykocin and continued.
I hoped to see the bison breeding center in Kiermusy, but it was already getting dark, so we couldn’t. We walked a bit around the village and then went to the Rzym Inn for dinner.
The Rzym Inn is a charming place, similar in character to the Młyńska Inn we visited in Bydgoszcz. It is a wooden cottage filled with interesting items — paintings, old photos, household objects, and animal trophies. The unusual thing is that the menu is written on a chalkboard above the bar, and the waiters also recite the available dishes.
When we entered, the last free table was available — as if waiting for us. I think many people had come from Tykocin. The waiter seated us and immediately listed three dinner sets. He spoke so fast that we didn’t understand him. The second time was better, so we asked for a moment to decide. We hadn’t seen the chalkboard yet, so we didn’t know what was available. We agreed on what to order — assuming we understood correctly — but then another issue arose: the waiter forgot about us. He must have been overwhelmed or having a tough day.
After a long wait, another waiter approached us. We asked about the available dishes, and they mostly matched what the first waiter had said — except that only two dishes were left, as the ingredients for the third (beef goulash) had run out. I was actually interested in that one. So we ordered roasted pork loin and tea. The third dish was pork knuckle. After a few minutes, the waiter brought large portions.
The food was very tasty, the portions generous, and the presentation nice. The price was moderate considering the simplicity of the dish, but the atmosphere of the place makes it worth visiting despite the unprofessional service from the first waiter.
Full and satisfied, we slowly headed back to Ritowisko for our horseback ride. We arrived shortly after 19:00, quickly got ready, and went to the stable, where Mr. Cezary, his staff, and the horses were already waiting. After a brief explanation of how to handle the horses, we mounted beautiful white mares with Mr. Cezary’s help. He took a torch, and we set off on a nighttime ride through the Knyszyńska Forest.
During the hour‑long ride, we traveled through forest roads and fields, far from civilization, talking with Mr. Cezary. Several times the torch went out, but we managed to reignite it from the embers. If the night had been starry, it would have been easier, but the sky was cloudy and the trees blocked any light, making it very dark.
Extremely satisfied, we returned to Ritowisko. After leading the horses back to the stable, Mr. Cezary showed us more of his farm, telling various stories about the horses and carriages he owns. Back in our room, we had a glass of red wine, reminisced about the wonderful day, and went to sleep.
The next day began just like the previous one — with a delicious breakfast. Then we packed, said goodbye, and continued our journey home. The first stop was Supraśl, where we bought souvenirs. From there, we went to Białystok to see the Rüdiger Palace, which turned out to be under renovation, so after a short look we moved on.
From Białystok, we drove to Choroszcz to see the Branicki Palace. The palace itself is small but beautifully located on an artificial island, accessible by a bridge. It is surrounded by a park with several paths and farm buildings, including a large stable with a warehouse — nicely decorated but closed to visitors.
Our trip was supposed to end in Choroszcz, but since I hadn’t seen any live bison in Białystok, my wife and I decided to detour and visit Kiermusy again. When we arrived, many cars were parked along the road. It turned out that a flea market was taking place at the bison breeding center. It was already ending, but there were still many stalls and lots of visitors.
Coming here, I finally achieved my goal — I saw bison in an almost natural environment. The entire trip was a wonderful experience, full of moments we won’t forget — especially the nighttime horseback ride with a torch. We met very kind people. We explored a part of Poland we had never visited before, and it’s definitely not a place to skip. Podlasie — at least the part we visited — is incredibly charming, a place where you can breathe deeply, eat well, and quickly recharge both physically and mentally.
We enjoyed our Podlasie trip so much that we plan to return in June or July when it’s warm. We still need to decide, but we’d like to ride horses again and go kayaking. For now, we have a longer trip to Lower Silesia booked, but we need to squeeze another Podlasie trip into the schedule earlier.
I hope that this year we’ll come up with another trip besides the two I mentioned above. Maybe in autumn. I’d gladly visit Bydgoszcz or Toruń again, and I’d also like to explore Płock, where I’ve been many times but only for work. Lublin could be a great destination as well. We’ll see what the future brings.
Our Travels
I encourage you to read my posts about the trips I take with my wife, including our hikes to the peaks that make up the Crown of Polish Mountains. Descriptions of our journeys are available at: likoton.pl/en/category/podroze.
Leave a Reply